Nothing like going from one sleepy town to the next. The good thing about these towns is that besides the distance between them, 3 or so days is plenty. I actually spent 2.5 days (3 nights) and feel satisfied and not regret I missed too too much. Of course there is a LOT to offer in both Bagan and Inle Lake and the more time to spend there the more time you really get to know the culture and people, but alas, I just had one week and there you have it.
So funny enough, a travel couple I met nearly a decade ago, are taking another travel sabbatical and sadly, I missed them literally by a few hours. I guess if I had known would have reversed my trip and do Inle first, but it is what it is. Good news though is that they gave me some tips on eats and things to do. I guess the things to do is pretty mainstream, but the eats were definitely helpful and thanks to them had not once, but twice, amazing dim sum (shout out to Live Dim Sum House) just further down the main road (opp Inle Lake) and conveniently a 2 min walk from my hotel, score!
Anyhoo, the big things to do besides eat is yet again, grab your push bike and off you go exploring! Nice to have a place encourage exercise, hehe. Although only managed a couple of runs here, which although at a snail's pace and disheartened (although well aware) how quickly a body can get out of shape, rode the bike quite a lot and worked up a sweat. Hey ho, will be at it as soon as I get back! So accessible by bike is the Monastery, the winery, the hot springs spa, the caves, and of course the all famous Inle Lake itself where you can "tour" around with your bike on the long boat (or not of course). I managed to do all of those things more or less at an easy and relaxed place. And even squeezed in a 2 hour massage at Aqua Lily's - which.was.awesome! Gosh, soo many knots to get rid of, super nice and friendly staff and of course good treatment options. Was reminded again (but rarely do) to do massages more often. So below is a not so glamorous yet practical info on those activities (and also reminder for me and points to give other traveller friends if they are coming here).
Red Mountain Winery:
Although not known for it's wine, kinda cool to go to wineries and see what they do offer. The route there is fairly easy and labeled and a nice ride. I'm not much of a wine connoisseur, but the wines were fair enough. It is 5000 kyat for 4 tastings and some small cheese and bread pieces. It's actually nice going for the view. My friends that had just been here hired a shared taxi to head about an hour away to Aye Thar Yar Wine Garden, which they said had better wine AND even better views!
The Monastery:
About a 30ish min bike down the lake comes the monastery. At the R hand side once you see the sign for The Jetty, across the street from that is a temple with a road to the L side of that and that is the road to take allllllll the way up up up. Had to walk the bike a few times as it is almost all uphill, but worth it. It's always interesting to see how the monks live, caught a chanting session by the kids and... it was peacefully quiet with all doors open. Almost felt like you were going into someone's home without them there. The few that had passed by just smiled, so I presumed it was okay... then after I wandered around saw a few more tourists doing the same. Back down a wee bit at the branch, you can go up to the pagoda, or down from the monastery. Another pagoda, but nice views. So I cruised all the way back down and went to the Jetty area where it just happened that some big celebration was happening. I was just standing there among the commotion when I hear a loud BOOM! Everyone starts looking around, including me as it sounded somewhat close, and then someone points at my front wheel. Noooooooooooo!!! My front tire literally exploded! What's up with me and my bad bike luck? In Bagan had double flats that ended up being replaced (the whole bike) and now this. So once again I asked random strangers who called my hotel to get a pick up. The good thing is while I was waiting, was able to catch the celebratory procession, so fun!
My poor bike, exploded front tire.
Hot Air Balloon Festival:
During my back packer like loooooong journey to Inle Lake, a few had mentioned it, just weren't sure on the dates. Fortunately, as it is based on the moon, it happened to start just the day before. My hotel was super enough to know about this other couple going so we all shared it to get out to Taunggyi. Went with this super nice Singaporean couple and was so glad to be with them as it is an indescribable experience. Don't know the background of the festival, but there were I would say a good 1/2 a million people there, 90% locals and the rest tourists. Basically, every 1/2 hour or so, as it takes awhile to get set up and put up, and out of the 4 that went up before the rains came and we left, the first was successful, the 2nd had to put out before it even got up my fire extinguishers, the 3rd got up and I hope not intentionally, but the fireworks started going off practically before it was off the ground and it is hard to describe, but pure pandemonium. Not only were we running aimlessly to get away from it, but thousands were also AND the balloon itself was going with the winds, hence unpredictable as well. To be honest, quite scary as one literally landed a good foot from us. I was holding on to Jessica for dear life, but also trying to make sure her boyf was there .... among a sea of scared faces and crying kids. Then it went up and up and had a nice fireworks display in the end before it just floated away, but phew! We were all a bit shake that, quite an experience! The 4th went up relatively calmly, BUT as it was decorated with candles, somehow whatever happened up there who knows, but the top part started disintegrating and then the balloon itself and then made a quick descent down below. Thank gawd we were far away, but the festival was probably a good couple of km by km and lots of stands and electrical wires, so just hope everyone was okay. All we saw were 3 firefighter trucks for all this, all of which seemed to get there to blow it out. So basically, hot air balloon festival = at your own risk!
Hot Springs:
What's better than having a nice looong bike ride to then soak in some nice hot springs in a beautiful setting? Or something like that. With a not drawn to scale map, was cycling, cycling, cycling, wanting to turn back as "is it here yet? You've gone this far, a bit more... okay, just a bit more." Came across this viewpoint area that said "mountain views" with a looong staircase. There came across other backpackers (of course) and we spent a good 15 min chit chatting and then trying to find out where these darn springs were. I went off before then and cycled a good... 200m ? until I saw it, haha. Of course (and knew this) I didn't bring a swimsuit with me at all on the trip, but figured would have a bite to eat and drink and relax a bit. A beautiful setting and got there when it was relatively quiet as when i was leaving, seemed to get more busy and loud. It's quite a small place so you can really hear everything. Basically it's about an hour to this random turnoff and then another hour, so all and all, really a 1/2 day excursion. Well, I openly admit that am not the best with directions, but here you really do follow one road. How I got on another is beyond me, BUT basically ended up waaaaaaay going out of the way. What a workout! Total cycled a good 5 hours I think, phew!
Inle Lake:
So as I got back into town later than I thought, was able to finagle a long boat ride from the little tourist shop where I rented my bike. The guy made it seem like no one was doing the rides anymore, which was quite surprising as I basically ended up going during sunset and thought it was beautiful! Got to see the houses on stilts, a bit of lake village life, the "true" fisherman. The reason I say it like that is because they have fake (or posing) fisherman that just do the pose (aren't fishing) and then ask for money (grrrrrrr! I hate that!). Unlike the "real" fisherman that were just minding their own business and... fishing!! Which was much more interesting to see. Oh well, overall a nice thing to see and good experience!
The cheese factor of this pic is really 12/10, he TOTALLY saw us coming, the boat slowed down, and he TOTALLY posed for this. Ugh, I HATE things like that! Even worse, the driver pulled next to the boat and then that "fake" fisherman asked for money! Booooooooooooo!!!!
A 'real' fisherman! Myanmar fisherman have this unique style of fishing where they wrap a lag around the ore and... well, I don't know anything about fishing, but they kind of scoop the net that way. Or something like that!
The Caves (Htet Eain Cave):
Yes! Something quick, easy, and close. Literally, just go down the main road (opp direction of Inle Lake) and just go straight. When there is a branch, one into a dirt road and the other road (some shops by there), you go straight on the dirt road (which becomes road) and... just follow the road to the end! The caves is something cool to see, there was a group there when I came and then they left, so have to admit got a wee bit ... not scared, just that creepy cave feeling, maneuvering through this dark dark area to get to some buddha statues. Caves are just cool in general and interesting to see it and am glad I went!
Eats:
Well, the Singaporeans that I risked my life with at the hot air balloon festival seemed to know their food, and they gave me some recs. The Inle Lake Pancake Kingdom - truly yum and I had forgotten that Inle Lake had these special pancakes. Then the French Toast, granted only for tourists and I'm sure in Lonely Planet, but super nice artwork and atmosphere. Good fusion of French and they call "Khan" food, their local food. I wish I had gotten there earlier, and feel like a brat saying it's because my massage ran late, but got there near closing and felt a bit rushed. Oh well. BTW, on a side note, you can hear a pin drop almost after 7pm but definitely 9pmand on, sooo quiet and hardly things open. Even the Western places seemed to be lights out. Oh, and of course as I went to it twice, the Live Dim Sum Restaurant - delish!!!
Special Inle Lake pancakes. Delish!!!!
A local/French concoction. Amaze!
And the best for last, did a coupe of runs around this gorg pond!
There you have it! What I liked about Inle Lake is that as you get around by bike (or always options of tuk tuks or car or horse), you go through the villages and that is nice to see, the local life. People generally either don't pay attention to you or say "minglaba!" Or "hello!" And the few times I got turned around or just wanted to make sure I was going the right direction, people super friendly and nice. Am glad I went and it is so nice to have visited such calm and quiet places, green and lush, and beautiful in its own way. The people seem happy to have tourists ($$), and as curious about us as we are of them. Unfortunately, didn't have opportunities to talk talk to the locals except for brief banter of where I'm from and what have you (also because of language barrier) but do wish I had that opportunity. I also like it that it is like 90% buddhist, so there is a sense of calm ... at least the places I went to. Am glad this trip capped off all of my SE Asia countries as I do see a bit of the other countries in Myanmar and a nice way to bring them all together.
Thank you Myanmar, I had a wonderful, relaxing, and peaceful time!
