Friday, October 9, 2015

Ethiopia, part 2

Here we go, part 2! But before I get started, wanted to say how much I enjoyed watching the people. I loved driving through the villages and seeing life as I imagine it to be hundreds of years ago. There IS electricity, but conserved and minimal. Although farming has improved (Ethiopia is 80% farm) so that many homes have tin roofs, there are still some thatched roofs, like back in the old days. They also strongly hold onto tradition, such as going to the market. To this day the villagers walk 2-4 hours each way to go to the market and buy, sell, trade, or just socialize! Even if they are selling one egg, it is village camaraderie and also a chance to catch up with friends, family, and anyone in between. As I watched them walk, they looked generally content and happy, I saw many laughs and goofing around. I also saw their shoe wear, many barefoot and many with flimsy plastic sandals. I'd be curious to know if they have feet problems, but I am fairly convinced they don't because much research has shown that shoes is really killing our feet, but that is a whole different discussion.

Anyhoo, the simplicity of living was just gorgeous to me. And although many often associate Ethiopia either with running OR with starvation from those harrowing images back in the 70's and 80's, although poor, it is no different than some other poor countries I've seen (India). And really, the sites and colors are just fantastic! And I loooved their faces. Ethiopians are quite unique looking from their ancient history, you see they have fairer skin (in some areas) and that is the influence from Yemen and sub-Saharan areas, they have more long faces (not meaning sad long, like physically long) and beautiful brown eyes. Beautiful! And funny enough, I began to notice how many have really nice teeth! I asked the guide about it and he said although the care for it is different then in Western worlds, it is actually the LACK of sugar that keeps their teeth looking so fresh. Yes, I RARELY saw desserts there, and my guide even joked, "we walk for dessert." Ah ha! When we came there was the New Year and I saw some cakes, but other than cakes, didn't see too much and it really isn't a part of their diet. That's why they stay so skinny, the lack of dessert AND the walking, walking, walking. Love it!!!!

What I love most about traveling is the people you see and meet. Whether the briefest of interactions or a more substantial one, it's always a rewarding experience. Traveling also helps you stay grounded, which I particularly need with living in Dubai. I feel I have, but traveling always puts me back in my place. Especially after seeing how women (usually women) lug water on their backs, have to walk miles and miles to get water, and then bring it back to their home and I'm sure use it sparingly. We are so spoiled! Showers! Endless water! At our fingertips! So the next time you decide to take a loooong leisurely shower, just take 2 seconds to think about so many who don't have that luxury. Anyhoo, here are some pics from the drive from Gondar to Lalibela, and it so happened that we passed through a market!














Onwards and upwards to the next phase of my trip, Lalibela, Mekele, and Axum!!

Lalibela - One of Ethiopia's (second to Axum) holiest cities, famous for its cluster of monolithic (all made from one rock) rock-churches. It is one of the earliest civilizations to adopt Christianity (pretty much 100% of Lalibela is Ethiopian Orthodox), dating back to first half of the 4th century! Lalibela, a revered as a saint, is said to have seen Jerusalem, and then attempted to build a new Jerusalem as his capital in response to the capture of old Jerusalem by Muslims in 1187. Each church was carved from a single piece of rock to symbolize spirituality and humility. It remained the capital of Ethiopia from the late 12th into the 13th century (as far as capitals, during that era, it changed between Bahir Dar, Lalibela, and Axum).


Above and below: Finally made it after a looong drive! We stayed at a gorgeous hotel, Soro Lodge, had amazing views, super clean and modern, and very quaint and personal! 


Below: The start of our 'cluster' tour of Lalibela (the churches were designed in clusters):A collection of rock churches, carved out of single rocks, and date back to 11th and 12th centuries AD - Bete Medanialem Church, Bete Mariam Church, Bete Meskel Church, Bete Denagel Bete Mikel Church






Below: The famous monolithic (Church made of a single piece of stone) Church of Saint George, dated to the late11th and early 12th century AD:


Below: Asheton Mariam monastery, at the top of Mount Abune Yosef. Prist displayed crosses from 12th century AD


More Lalibela below: 


Can I just say I looooooooooooooove this picture! This boy was just so so cute, what a beautiful face! 


Above and below: Ehh... what? Yes, quite strange! It is a Scottish - Ethiopian restaurant called Ben Abeba, so unique! Besides the stunning views, had great food that was NOT marked up for being touristy!


On the road again in Lalibela..... A bit of a drive to get to another church: 


Below: Cave church of Yimrehane Christos, an 11th-century stone and wood church




Below: Then back to round 2 of the church clusters of Lalibela:  Bete Merkorios, Bete Emanuel and Bete Aba Libanos, all dating from 11th and 12th Century AD









Below: And finally, to top of our magical days in Lalibela, chicken stew! We heard it was a well-known dish in Ethiopia, but after we all decided to get it, we learned that it was usually only for special occasions, like Christmas, etc. However, with a pre-order (it supposedly takes hours to make), we got it! It was cute because we invited our guide, who was extremely touched because he associates it only with special occasions and people and that we asked him to join us. It was something different, but still good (and having it this once was fine with me!)  


Drive to Mekele/Mekele:

Another market below:







Mekele Museum (below):




Can't seem to get away from camels!



A rock church

Below: Abreha Wasbeha Church, a unique experience to be there for a chanting service! 






( I heart this picture!)



Below: A good effort hike (with narrow mountain massageways) to get to the Debre Tsion Abune Abraham mountain church of Tigray:







A 15th century fan!!


Above and below: Church dated back to 9th and 10th centuries, however paintings from around 15th century.




Our super guide, Jeremiah maxin' and relaxin' while waiting for us do the Church visit

Below: This is quite funny. The day that we visited this Church of Debre Tsion Abune Abraham (and did the nice hike to get there), it was a Saint's day, so all these people were fasting the whole day while in Church for hours. So they finished and then got fairly ... happy let's say, with this homemade beer-like drink that they drank out of (dirty) tin. Needless to say, it wasn't quite appealing, being in the dirty tin nor the taste of it, yet gave it a little sip! But it was sooo funny interacting with these priests! They invited us to sit and drink with them, which we kinda did, and then they liked our company so much, they did a little chanting ceremony for us which was truly special. It was one of those unique travel experiences I just love!








Me after the climb, still smiling, and then getting ready for the next one...

Below: Mariam Korkor Church, an even harder climb to get up to it! Quite steep and was almost like rock-climbing! Can't imagine how they even built the thing and how locals: climb it so often to get to church! 








As you see, amazing views! So well worth the climb!



Axum: The ancient capital of Ethiopia and the oldest continuously inhabited places in Africa, dating back to 400 BC into 10th century it was the naval capital. It is the holiest cities of all of Ethiopia, and the obelisks are from 5000-2000 BC. Here is where the ancient language of Ge'ez was founded, and that is what the bible is written in and the priest schools still teach it because that is what the bible is written in. Also, Axum is so important because it is where the Church of Our Lady Mary of Zion houses the Ark of the Covenant is (replicas are in every church). It is said that that Makeda, the Queen of Sheba, went to visit King Solomon in Jerusalem and they had a son Manelik. Although he grew up in Ethiopia, he traveled to Jerusalem to visit his father and then it was gifted to him the Ark (there are many stories about this!). So I saw the church, but they built a 2nd church next to it, and supposedly are going to switch it around so that it doesn't get tampered with or stolen (I think we've all seen too many movies!). Kinda cool to know such a magnificent relic is there!  

This obelisk was taken by the Italians in the 1930's (broken into 5 pieces) and it wasn't until 2005 it returned (Ethiopians demanded it as it is a part of their national identity and it wasn't until 2008 when it was fully up)




Stairway to heaven (I hope!)

This boy (great stride and pace) and this girl (note that she is barefoot and in a long skirt) literally chased us for about 5km to get to our next destination to try and sell their little handicrafts. Quite fast runners these kids! Felt like an arse (we all did) for not buying anything, but really amazing their speed and stamina!)

Queen Sheba bath

Queen of Sheba palace (the remains of it), used to be over 3000m and quite a large mansion with 2 stories.

Loved the colorful handicrafts!

Final day with our lovely group! Maria, Thelma, guide Jeremiah, Colm, Mike, Jill, Meg, me, and driver Anthony

Final local life picture

Final sunset in Ethiopia!!! Bye!!! Hope to explore again (the South is supposed to be completely different with the local tribes, the Rastafari's, the Bole Mountains, etc. Loved the convenience of Addis being a less than 4 hour flight from Dubai!) 



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