Before I get started, you can tell it is Summer Ellen (have a LOT more time on my hands without training and life is just slower now), this is like the world's longest blog. Even I have surpassed my blabbering and yapping. So be forewarned!!! It is looooooooooooooooooooooooooong! :-) This is no EXPRESS blog, I will tell you that! Lol
Again, here was my itinerary: Dubai -> Osaka -> Nara (Day trip) -> Kyoto (day trip) -> Osaka (met with my group there) -> Koyasan -> Hiroshima -> Kyoto -> Hokane -> Tokyo (left my group) -> Nikko -> Tokyo -> Dubai.... all in 2 weeks, phew!
Will try to do a synopsis of it (hopefully not too bor-ing) with pics and little bits and bobs of info as already went through some other random info and details in my previous Japan EXPRESS A blog:-)
Osaka:
The food capital of Japan! By chance we had the Japanese pancake specialty twice, okonomiyaki (try saying that 3 times fast):
And a true Japanese experience of the Sushi/sashimi conveyor belt
To be honest, I didn't see much of Osaka itself, just this when I was taking the bus from the airport:
And then the day that I left Alena's (who went to work), dropped my bags off at the hotel, and then did a major pow-wow across town (actually, am super proud of myself for navigating and only getting off track once) to see the Himeji Castle and Osaka Castle. Himeji Castle was a BIG o trek (quite costly too with the trains)... but well worth it.
Himeji Castle, also known as "White Heron Castle," is quite large and VERY well preserved. I learned that despite the various natural disasters and wars, it is only 1 of 12 castles that didn't suffer destruction and is considered one of the most beautiful castles in all of Japan. The landscape around it is quite vast and gorgeous and my thinkings of "wow! This is in fairly good shape considering it is more than 4000 years old (1609)," was later confirmed that it was renovated last year. Ahhh. It was cool to see a world heritage site and that it was open to visitors and had some nice views of Osaka:
As it then was getting late, did a mad rush across down and got there a 1/2 hour before doors would be shut, so needless to say, I did rush through it a bit, there is a museum inside it with quite detailed descriptions and artifacts to be fair. It, unlike Himeji Castle, did suffer through a couple of destructions through the years and again repaired more "recently" in the 1930's (it was originally built in the 1500's, but with war and lightening that destroyed it in the 1600's, the final bit was completed in the 1900's. Quite beautiful and I liked the vast openness around it and the landscape:
Nara:
"VAAT? I can't believe Nara isn't included in your itinerary!" (Alena is Russian so sounds juuuuust like my mom when she says "VAAAAAT?!"). Helloo? My itinerary was so action packed we hardly had time to go the toilets (just kidding). So upon arriving in Osaka late in the evening, we immediately came up with a plan to go to Nara.
I don't know if I mentioned this, but Alena just happens to be a brilliant brilliant person. I met her 6 years ago when I did the Arctic Circle trip and funny enough, hardly remember her or talking to her on the trip, BUT we befriended the same people, her and another friend were going to come together to visit (she ended up not making it) and she was always super forthcoming to visit in Japan. She was MORE than excited when I decided to come and immediately, no questions asked, said she could host me and take me around. Of course it happened that I came at the worst timing, just when she was about to move (we all know how that is), but we made it work and tried to help her with keeping her head together. Long story short, she got a scholarship to study Japanese 17 years ago and has since completed a masters and phD in ... well, I got a bit confused by this, something with religion, then Japanese, then something else. She basically has written academic papers in Japanese, has taught in Japanese and on top of that, is a tour guide... usually for Russian tourists. She is one of those people that from the first min we re-met, it was like long lost BFF's (although again, I really don't remember her that much from the trip when we met, ha ha). So sweet and would love to return the favor one day. Anyhoo... she has a TON of energy (really, a ton!) and gave me all the info I needed on sites and sounds of Japan.
So according to my own private tour guide, he he, Nara was actually the first permanent capital of Japan, dating way back to the year 710. However, because it was so Buddhist, it was perceived as a threat and then moved to Nagaoka. Because of this history, it has some of the oldest temples in Japan and is quite a fun site. Fun? Yes fun because it is known to have these 'peaceful' deer. So random! The deers are well fed by tourists (with food provided for vendors) and are super friendly, you can pet them, and they are all around Nara. It is quite a beautiful city because as it was full Day 1 for me in Japan, got to see cherry blossoms! Yay! And loved the beauty and nature of it... and of course the temples.
Cherry blossoms!!!
Alena and I by a cherry blossom tree and the deer in the background
Entrance to Todaiji Temple, Nandaimon Gate
Todaiji Temple - from it's construction was one of the most influential Buddhist Temples of Japan and so powerful, the capital moved from Nara because the power of the temple was perceived as a threat.
Todaiji Temple
I think these are for peace (??)
This Buddha statue is known to cure ailments. If you have knee pain, you rub his knee, and the legend has it that your knees will feel better. Quite fun!
Todaiji Temple
One of Japan's largest bronze Buddha statue at 15m tall, housed in one of Japan's (the world's?) largest wooden buildings
Todaiji Temple
Pagoda
Lanterns donated by worshippers
Above and below: My first authentic 'Japanese style' meal, amazing!
Cherry blossom, or sakura, tree!
Kasuga Taisha Shrine
Wisteria flowers and Kasuga Taisha Shrine
Came across this wedding, loved her wedding kimono
The relatively peaceful deer at Nara :-)
Kofukuji Temple
Kyoto... Part I: To be detailed in Kyoto section below! Mentioned it as it is the order I did my trip, hehe
Koyasan (Mt. Koya)
Well, one of the beauties of organized travel is because the locations are set for you, you get a lot of unexpected surprises. As I was a bad girl and hardly did any research before my trip and hence relied on the organized trip, Koyasan was a big o highlight of the trip. For one thing, if I close my eyes and envision Japan, Koyasan is how I would imagine it. At the heart of Mt. Koya, Koyasan is what is called a monk's village, many monk's live and practice there hence is surrounded by temples and the vibe is SUPER peaceful and relaxing. Okay, being that I was obsessed with the fresh air and beauty of nature up to this point, it felt even MORE fresh and ... pure. It (the 'town') was fairly quiet, had tourists but didn't seem to be crowded or deter from the vibe. So the best part is that there most people, including ourselves, stay at what's called shukubo's - or temple hotels. It's basically a temple converted into a hotel... and is super traditional. You sleep in rooms with paper thin walls (seriously) on tatami mats (like futon's). Everything about was just... awesome. So quaint and... serene. You just feel calm and relaxed being there. We stayed at one called Ekoin Temple, super peaceful with a zen garden and the rooms were just beautiful:
Loved all the vegetarian only foods!
Part of the stay and why it was so awesome was that you got to see and experience the daily lives of the monks. They had a little meditation session which was awesome and reminded me of my vipassana days, although can't imagine how I meditated for 10 hours a day in the lotus flower position as after like 5 minutes, my hips and knees were killing me. Their teachings were to have your eyes half open (to be 'aware' of life) but also 1/2 closed (to avoid falling asleep and closing your mind to the world), then to take 3 deep breaths, inhale through your nose and exhale through your mouth. Then 10 times normal breathing... and just keep going until your mind and body calms down. Have been trying to do it when I have a 'busy' mind. They also have in the mornings a prayer session we can watch (at 6:30 am) and then a little 'fire' ceremony at 7am. Super peaceful and spiritual. And by chance, this day happened to be my bday! Almost forgot it was my bday, but then so glad to start off the day like that. Also decided to keep the bday on the DL (down low)... just felt like it. Nevertheless, the secret came out the next day (will talk about that later).
Some pics from Koyasan:
Above and below: The beautiful Kongobuji Temple with Zen Garden.... the lines represent watery waves and the rocks mountains, almost like a dried landscape. Can imagine how painstaking it is to get the lines so exact. Zen gardens are most known for a place to meditate, and it does exude a very calming aura and after sitting for a few minutes we all noted we felt a lot calmer.
The yummy doughy (often with bean paste inside) treats
The Gokurakubashi train railway... one of the things that made Koyasan seem special as took some transportation efforts to get there! :-)
We all went to Darjo Garan Temples, the 'hub' of monk trainings, teachings, and practices. The Danjo Garan Temples are the most famous as it is an entire complex of Shingon Bhuddist temples which due to lightening, have been rebuilt a few times, but still hold an immense presence and have a serene spirit about them. The temples are colorful and each are similar yet unique. We were fortunate to not only catch it in daytime, but also at nighttime when there was a special anniversary ceremony, both were special and has a really peaceful vibe and spirit to it:
It is common to use these bucket-type things to wash hands and clean up before entering the temples
The night ceremonyat Darjan Garan Temple complex:
Then of course we visited the other famous sightseeing site, the Okunoin Cemetery. It actually did not have an eerie or scary vibe considering it's a 'cemetery,' It is actually quite a serene and peaceful place and is actually known as one of the most sacred places in Japan because this is where the founder of Shingon Buddhism, Kobo Daishi, has his mausoleum and is believed to be "resting" waiting for eternal meditation.... many come there to ask for salvation. There are over 200,000 tombstones that cover the 2km length of the cemetery. We also went there at night, but again, it offers more of spiritual vibe than what one would think of an eerie or scary cemetery.
Hiroshima
Sometimes I feel nature "knows" things, and when we headed for Hiroshima, it was one of the few days we had grey skies and a bit of rain. Nothing too major but enough to have the right "mood" for visiting the location of this city where the U.S. dropped the atomic bomb during World War II on August 6, 1945 it and completely destroyed the city within a 2km radius (and beyond). Why Hiroshima? Because it was the headquarters of the 2nd General Army with lots of military personnel and also had an important port. It was a somber journey there and very humbling as it killed between 90,000-140,000 people (the wide range is many were just missing and/or all records destroyed). The bomb actually missed it's target by a little and because the epicenter had shifted a bit (meant for a bridge), somehow this dome building stayed and has since survived. Many died after the explosion, from radiation sickness, burns, illness, malnutrition, you name it. Our first visit was the sight of the only building that 'survived' the blast, surprisingly an old exhibition hall built by a Czech architect. Although officially known as Hiroshima Genbaku Dome, it is often referred to as "A-dome" in reference to Atomic (bomb) dome.
Sadly, this river is where many many people, including children, jumped into because of the burning... they said it was horrendous to see all the dead bodies in there.
We happen to come across a group of children singing, well, we didn't understand but our guide said it was a Japanese song to honor the children and lives lost because of the atomic bomb, they sang in front of the Children's Peace Monument. It is hard to describe as to be honest, many of us (me too!) seemed to a get a bit emotional as it was the site of all these children looking quite humbled and serious, though singing beautifully (and well coordinated and guided) to honor this statue.
There is also the paper plane mini 'museum' next to the Monument. The famous paper origami cranes are famous mostly in honor of Sadako Sasaki, who died of radiation from the atomic bomb. In her fight to survive, she made 1000 cranes which according to Japanese tradition, you are granted one wish, and hers was to a world without nuclear weapons. Since then origami cranes there have been a sign of peace.
Hiroshima Peace Memorial Park:
Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum:
View from inside the Museum
Above and below: Super cute to see the students learning about origami and making cranes. The guides (in the green jackets!) were super good! He made one for me and seeing that the crane's head was slightly bowing down, he said that was a sign of bad luck and immediately fixed it so that the crane was looking up, towards the sky and towards the future in a positive manner. Phew, glad he corrected, can't have that on my conscious!
After a bit of a somber morning, funny enough the sun peaked out and had to lighten the mood with a little green tea ice cream, yum!!!
The mood definitely got lighter as we made our way to the famous Itsukushima Shrine, Miyajima Island. This is home of the world heritage site and 'shrine island' that is pretty much on every Japan advert, the 'floating' torji shrine. It is major holy site of Shinto religion:
Below: A super traditional wedding going on. The first pic below is ... well, I'm calling her a bridesmaid, maybe a sister, just thought her kimono is gorgeous!
The bride! Really interesting and wish I knew more about the tradition. She was facing her hubby across the way from her.
The ladies bridal party
The bride (all in white) facing her hubby
Not related to the wedding, lol, these are rice wine barrels!
On our way to Mt. Miyajima:
Somehow the next day after bday celebrations (another guy had his bday the day after mine) and lots of sake, somehow managed to get up to see the beautiful Shukkeien Zen Garden, nothing like fresh flowers and again lovely weather to sparkle the trip! I love gardens!
Part I: My day trip with Alena
So as I mentioned, Alena does tour guiding on the side, so she was full on looking at my itinerary and as some of what she thought of as "major sites" were not included, and this is solely because of time, on my 2nd full day there, we opted to do a day trip from Osaka to Kyoto. Who knew there were so close? Apparently not me! It was a lot less of a journey than Nara the day before. I think when people speak of Kyoto, it seems their eyes completely light up. I've had friends call it "my favorite place in the world," and I had a patient that went there last year (2015) during cherry blossom season but Japan just happened to have complete downpour almost the whole time and despite him being "underwhelmed" with Japan, he was still throwing out nothing but beautiful superlatives. So needless to say, was looking forward to it. First thing Alena told me was that Japanese consider U.S.'s Secretary of War during World War II as a hero because his decision to NOT bomb/raid Kyoto was because he went there on his honeymoon and couldn't bear the thought of losing such a cultural beauty. Also Kyoto has suffered from, as usual, nature disasters, on top of some small raids, it still retains many many original temples, shrines, and structures. I think there is something like 2000 religious places, mostly temples but also plenty of shrines.
The 2nd thing she told me was if you REALLY want to annoy a tour guide, just ask them about geisha's. Generally being a positive and nice person, you can see her BP go up even with the topic (which, thank gawd I didn't bring up). I think it's more that it is soo soo over-hyped that what used to be considered special and unique is now mis-interpreted of it being a form of prostitution. Which it's totally not. Geisha's are artists and in ancient times they were performers, singing, dancing, engage in conversation and are master hostesses, always taking control of their hostesses, despite some carefree flirtation. Yes, at some stage this did turn into some sexual services which was dramatized with real prostitutes calling themselves "geisha girls," to get the attention of men (especially American men, whom of course were fascinated with this). What Alena and my guide Yoko both said is that trainings to be a geisha is quite intense and lifelong until married. Nowadays there are dramatically less geisha's than in the peak during the 1800's, this is mostly because of the war and many had to go to the factories and work. There are still 'real' geishas, where it seemed Kyoto was and is a hub for it, but unlike tourists dressing up in the geisha outfits (with make-up and all, which they pay for) taking selfies, a real geisha is quiet shy and doesn't seek attention, and although not always obvious and often hard to tell, it is more the obvious not overdone makeup and hair and more the attitude that you can tell the difference. Both also said that the famous Memoirs of a Geisha had of course many true elements in it, but a lot of things were exaggerated. I have to re-watch that movie (or re-read the book). Having went on that big o tangent on that, I'm pretty sure I saw one... as she looked local carrying some groceries and then tucked herself away to make or take a phone call (to not get attention?) and was by herself (whereas tourists, etc, are usually with friends, etc). Who knows though? All quite interesting. Here is a pic that someone on my group took that my guide said "probably" was one.. with her male companion next to her in the black suit (who knows though, really):
Anyhoo, moving on, Kyoto!
Arashiyama Bamboo forest - probably would be a bit more magical, but so many tourists!
Tourists dressed up (from Australia, haha), but if they were real Japanese, it would be quite a nice pic with their colorful outfits and the bamboo forest in the background! Lol
Caught this newly wed couple, loved her outfit!
And another newly wed couple!
If I were to give one piece of advice, PLEASE go to the "local" theatre geisha performance. These are real geisha's with traditional music playing. Local woman were dressed up, no pictures allowed, a mature audience, and the theatre is really beautiful. Why I emphasize this is because just next door is the tourist rendition of it where they charge three times as much AND it is like an phone/ipad extravaganza. People that I met said it was completely took away from the performance with so many people standing up to video or take pics, completely over-rated and not worth the $$. Whereas I had a wonderful experience and felt the dance was quite authentic. Thanks Alena!
Part II: My days there with GAdventures
Fushimi Iman-Taisha , with the thousands of orange torii gates dedicated to the sacred Mt. Inari, the Shinto god of rice. There are also many statues of foxes that are supposed to be messengers of Inari... all dating back to the year 794.
Above and below: Although I did complain a bit I thought our group of 15 was a wee bit too big (especially considering all the public transportation we used and how go go go the trip was), it comes in handy when you block the entrance way just to get a people-free picture! hahahah
Messages on the back are wishes
Kyoto train station, I guess it was the opening weekend of a Train Museum, so in lieu of that, they had these cool changing lights on the staircase at the train station
Golden Pavilion - Rokuon-Ji Temple: It's a Buddhist hall containing relics of Buddha with the garden and what was actually a family home to a statesman and sold to a family in 1397 are said to represent Pure Land of Buddha in this world. So it was known as a villa and an official guesthouse for such guests at the Emperor Gokomatus (Father of Zen teacher, Ikkyu) and other noble guests. It was later converted to a temple by a priest and represents Muromachi-period architecture. It truly is gleaming and a great spectacle (if you take out all the tourists that were there). Alas, I appreciated the beauty of it and blocked out the hoards (note to self: If go to Japan again, don't go during Golden Week - 1st week in May, lol).
Then it was off to Philosopher's Walk, said to be named so because one of Japan's most known philosopher's, Nishida Kitaro used to walk along this stone path and reflect and meditate. It is supposed to be gorgeous during cherry blossom season.... we saw some trees, but for us it was mostly green. I found it quiet and peaceful and calming and really enjoyed it, especially that there weren't so many people as the other sites we had been to.
Then back to Gion, the famous district in Kyoto... lined with many small traditional homes and styles.
Random transport pics of our group (didn't know where else to throw these in and just am guessing between Kyoto and Hakone , haha):
Hakone
Most known for it's views of Mt. Fuji, the shy Mt. Fuji, mind you. It was quite shy the day that we came and besides a few bits when it seemed to clear up, we only got a vague glimpse of it:
Other snaps around town and also from the middle point of the ropeway in the area Owakudani (the top bit was closed due to recent volcanic activity), nice views of Lake Ashinoto:
Our fab Ryokan hotel. Hakone is known for it's hot springs and lo and behold, again, another unexpected surprise. On the rooftop, I believe the name of our hotel is Tenseiein Hotel, is a super clean and beautiful onsen, or hot spring bath. Mind you, this was all new to me, the Japanese style hot spring which is to get nake (as my mom would say, instead of naked), and you sit on these little stools and wash yourself. Then you go to these little hot tub like "pools." Instead of one big o hot spring pool, there were several of these hot springs pools both inside and outside that seemed to be all the same temperature (maybe that was just me?). Fortunately, when I went, no one else from my group did, you know, that can be a bit awkward, and boy, did I have an amazing night! Not only temperature wise was it literally just perfect, not to warm, not too cool, just perfect, but it was a beautiful starry night. Being among the trees and nature with the crisp, clean air and gazing at the stars was like "serenity now." Can't even describe it, but it was just a nice way to detox and relax after such a hectic trip and just before the chaos and madness of Tokyo. Loved loved LOVED it. And again, am falling for these small mountain villages more than the busy cities, they are just so much more special to me. Especially breathing the fresh crisp refreshing air, think I purified my lungs a smidge from years in Dubai now.
I know I said this before, but really, one of the best meals we've had - absolutely amazing!
Another 'wish' board
Falls by the beautiful garden at the Hotel
Tokyo
Augh! Welcome to crazy, busy, crowded, and action packed Tokyo!!
Lo and behold, our hotel was literally just a few minutes from Shibuya train station and the infamous Shubuya Crossing, one of the world's busiest intersections. I could spend hours at the Starbucks just above it and watch the hoards of people pass by... in quite an organized fashion I must say! Even though people are crossing from all sorts of different directions, it somehow works and you don't bump into people. Kinda fun!!!
So to be honest, Tokyo was a MEGA whirlwind. I only had 2 days there and boy did a pow wow. Almost felt sore from walking so much! Basically we took advantage of the last days of the JR Rail Pass and pow-wow'd the Yamanote circular route to hit up Ueno, Shinjuku, and of course Shibuya on day and the next day Tsukiji Fish market and Harajuku. Phew!
Day 1: Ueno - "Ameyayokocho" market (random things that you can negotiate, which is usually not common in Japan), kitchen market (knives! knives! knives!), Ueno Park. Shinjuku and the view from the Tokyo Metropolitan Government building (free to get a fab view!), and of course Tokyo at night:
Somewhat view of Tokyo Tower
Day 2: Pow wow the world famous Tsukiji Fish market, literally one of the world's largest fish market, most famous for bluefin tuna and for the capability to move 1800 tonnes of seafood a day! So much fish is moved, they are actually relocating to another location by the end of the year! Also pow wow'd Harajuju area, home of crazy teen dressing, interesting architecture.
Tokyo Tower (sighting on the way to the fish market)
Above and below: Sushi for breakfast! Best.Sushi.EVER!!!! (really, it goes down so smooth and easy and just tastes amazing!)
On to Harajuku:
And finally, the famous Hachiko dog statue, outside Shibuya station. This statue honors the cute story of the loyalty and fidelity of this dog that walked with his owner every day to the train station and then waited for his return and walked backed with him. Even when the owner passed, the dog kept the same route and habit for the next 11 years until he passed (and the train attendants ended up feeding him and caring for him). Such a cute story!
Okay, this has officially become the world's longest blog and is even never ending for me, so a quick snapshot, I decided to go to Nikko and NOT stay a few extra days in Tokyo to get away and be in nature. BEST decision I ever made. Not to diss Tokyo or anything, you can spend weeks there and be quite entertained, but as I get older and more low key (hehe), really really REALLY prefer nature and outdoors and... quiet! It was a perfect way to end the trip and FINALLY felt rejuvenated, refreshed and detoxed after such a hectic trip. Was TOTALLY relaxed, SUPER awesome to be on my own and just do what I want when I want. There are pro's and con's (as I mentioned in my other blog) to all types of travel, and really, this trip I did it all!
On a side note, I got the Nikko 4-day pass as I was there for 3 full days, and it is so so so worth it! It paid for itself big time and not only allowed me to get to/from Tokyo to Nikko (just 2 hours each way) round-trip, but also allowed me to take the longer buses to get from Nikko to Yomoto, the hot springs hot spot (which of course I had to do!). They also have a 2-day pass - highly recommended!
So although I was a bit templed and shrined out by the end of the trip, had a "must see" by a travel friend, so still ventured out to Tosogu Shrine and surrounding area. Nikko has a lot of famous sites that are heavily advertised, so it was cool to see it firsthand. Not only the famous red bridge over the river with the mountains in the background, but also the Three Monkeys sculpture - hear no evil, speak no evil and see no evil."
After just 1/2 a day I realized NYET to anymore temples and shrines (and again, because of the holidays, it was just so so crowded) and DA (hehe, Russian "yes") to NATURE! So off I went the next couple of days to do some ... well, I was going to say hiking, but it was really walking as it was not that difficult. Surprisingly, or not surprisingly, there are some designated and clearly marked hiking trails, and I did one I randomly came across (kinda got lost a bit, to be honest), Kirikomi (lake) path that conveniently started and ended at the Yomoto Hote Springs (apparently, the origin of hot springs), and the Kanman Path. As again it was a holiday, I hardly found a small onsen (hot spring) that was open. It definitely was NOT the same as that beautiful and clean and big one I went to in Hakone, but still felt relaxed and good to stretch the 'ol legs. The next day went to another one just next to it and it was still small, but much nicer and at least that one I was by myself, which was so peaceful and relaxing being outside and enjoying the fresh air. I realized later that really, they aren't joking that Yomoto is the origin of the spring as you can really see the bubbles and mud coming from the ground in this particular location... which was where I went both first and 2nd day. But 2nd day I thought to detox my face a little bit and immersed my face in the water, and I swear, that night I thought my face would burn off my skin (had nightmares and everything) and it was a bit sore and pealed a bit for a good few days after, no joke. Note to self - don't immerse your face in hot springs (with the origin just 50m from the onsen (hot springs spa)) you are going to. D'oh! Anyhoo, as Nikko is a bit more mountanous, although early May, still caught a bit of cherry blossoms! People say that Nikko is quite spectacular during the full season and they have this "romantic drive," basically a road that is FULL of them, that is supposed to be quite amazing.
Yes, that is SNOW! And this is in early May!
Yutaki Falls
Yomoto Lake
Above and a few below: Lake Chuzenji
Below: Bake Jizo statues, around 74 of them when there used to be 2000, but destroyed in a floor... pretty cool how they are all in one line
As you see, am obsessed with flowers! And nature!!!
Phew, well folks, if you bared with me this MEGAAAAAAAAAA long blog, you get a pat on the back because even it made me tired browsing through it!! I wouldn't even call it Japan in a nutshell, because then it would be quite a big nut! As you see, Japan has a ton to offer and although explored so little of it, felt I got a pretty good taste and impression!
Now .... in lieu of Japan's obsession with the chocolate bar kit kats (especially the green tea ones), "gimme a break" until the next one, hahaha :-)
