To back track a smidge, I actually had a different trip planned for this late April vacay, but it is a loooooong story on why that didn't work out. When Japan popped into my head after a few incidences of what I call "universal signs," Japan prevailed despite somewhat breaking my rule of primarily traveling to "close" locations from Dubai (oddly, it is fairly equidistant USA to Japan as Dubai to Japan). Nonetheless, as I get triple vacay time, thought to just do it. And boy am I glad I did.
After a many hours spent on decision-making, finally decided to go with a group to Japan, the same GAdventures company that I had planned my original trip that I cancelled and they are super enough to just transfer the deposit. I am fairly here and there and everywhere with travel style - solo, with friends, with groups, think all have their pro's and con's. Although heard from several that Japan is fairly "easy" to travel solo, I basically chose a group because of time! Who has the time these days for such planning details? I did initially spend some time trying to plan some stuff, but after a few hours of internet searches, basically got nowhere and was just overwhelmed with too many choices. So this trip became a combo trip: A few days with a travel friend that lives in Osaka, 9 days travelling with a group (my 4th trip with GAdventures, basically I like the big logistic organization tied with independence with free time, NO hand holding, and usually an adult international crowd), and then a few days on my own. This worked out perfectly and couldn't have asked for a better way on how things worked out. Here's my group:
So here goes: Ellen's Japan Express: Dubai - Osaka (met Alena) - Nara (day trip) - Kyoto (day trip) - Osaka (met the group there)- Koyasan - Hiroshima - Kyoto - Hakane - Tokyo (finished with group there) - Nikko - Tokyo - Dubai: all in 2 weeks! Am totally pooped and I don't know which day was more packed than the day before. These days have been taking trips a wee bit slower, but Japan has waaaaaaay too much to offer and even though packed it in, there is still so so much I haven't done or seen. Phew! And through all that, I have to say the gush and glory people give Japan is really true. It is such a unique culture and i don't know what I was more impressed or taken by, the kindness and politeness of people, the beauty and care of nature, emphasis on details (as far as aesthetics), the list goes on and on. History of course always brings stories and understandings, and Japan is no exception.
As there is a lot to talk about, Japan EXPRESS A will be general thoughts and impressions, and Japan EXPRESS B more about the details (itin) of my trip (which even I admit can be bor-ing, but a nice reminder to myself on things).
Random thoughts/impressions:
- Politeness - "May i take your passport?" at immigration. That's how my trip started. Loved how if you ask someone, whether they speak English or not, they won't just point in the direction, they wither will guide you there or actually take you there. Example - when I was doing a hike in Nikko and got turned around a bit, basically this couple drove me where I needed to go without blinking an eye... It was a modern day hitchhiking of some sorts. Or when I couldn't figure out where this train connection one, I asked a subway shop vendor, mind you, she was by herself, but lo and behold, she left the store and escorted me for a bit to make sure I knew exactly where the next train station was. Too kind!
- The dress (suits) - A random observation, but I loved seeing so many men in full-on suits. It definitely caught my eye from Day 1 and it looks very impressive and I guess... does look like they take their work seriously. In general, USA especially, men and work attire has gotten soooo casual, khakis and collared shirts for men and even more casual. Here I found that the people are fairly stylish and well put together, men and women and maybe it's because I am a physio, but noticed a lot of PT approved walking shoes! Tokyo was a bit more crazy apparel, but I was expecting that. This all leads to....
- The elderly - Yes, it is true that Japanese have one of the longest longevity of life in the world (I think men it's 82 or something and woman 86), yet not only are they still active and still walk everywhere (and of course eat organic and lots of fish and veggies), but they too are very well put together and look... Nice! So many wear these cute little hats or french berets and put on subtle (NOT gawdy) make-up. Love it! Not only that, but there is a respect for the elderly and it goes without saying to give up your bus or train seat for someone older. Was especially nice to see the youth do that as well. This happy bunch below were off to do some hiking:
- The toilets - Ahh... the toilets. Everyone's favorite topic of conversation. This could be a blog in itself and pretty much anyone that goes to Japan will mention the toilets within the first couple of minutes. They aren't just clean, but most, including public toilets, are bidets, so have lids cool things like lids pop up automatically when you open the door, warm toilet seats, sounds to drown sounds, then all the sprays and even dryers for "down there." Really amazing! Can be admittedly a bit complicated with so many buttons and most with Japanese characters, so unless translated in English, tried not to touch too many buttons because you never know!
Haha, this one had an instructions manual!
- Respect for nature - It isn't just shintoism and how most Japanese practice both Shintoism and Buddhism, but because Japan is so susceptible to natural disasters, from volcanoes to earthquakes to tsunami's, you name it, that they really take care of nature and respect it. So seeing that, it is quite perplexing about their excessive use of plastic. Everything is not only wrapped in plastic, fruits and veggies, but also they individually wrap most all cookies and treats and their delicious Japanese specialties. Of course it aesthetically looks beautiful, but .... I'm sorry to say, really? Is it necessary? Even our guide said it was a bit much. Oh well. But then again, they probably have one of the best recycling systems ever, most all trash bins have a bin for paper, plastic, etc. Too bad many of them are in Japanese so by default I would put things in the "general waste," but what to do?
An example of a window display. I guess you can't really tell here how it is all covered in plastic. To be honest, sometimes it just looked a bit .... gross, but at least it gives you an idea on the food selections (I guess)
An example of the treats
- Then of course loooved how they looooove flowers and the nature. Soo beautiful and people really care for their gardens as well as it is quite common to have plants and flowers in front of stores and restaurants, even on busy streets. And because I was there late spring, so many beautiful colorful flowers. Just couldn't get enough! So I know, I know, many people and countries love and have flowers, and I think I've become a bit tarnished living in Dubai when there are not so many flowers and/or if there are, it's fake a lot of the time. Hence, I do admit that my excitement over little things like this is just me living in Dubai!
- Attention to detail - I know, I know, another cliche about Japan, but no matter if a small corner mom and pop shop or nice restaurant, the decor and even tiny little decorations on the food platters is just lovely, especially on sushi/sashimi bento boxes with a small flower or something. And as mentioned before, all the individually wrapped cookie or treat boxes had beautiful decorations as well as gift boxes. Love the simplicity and of course "Asian portions," haha.
Haha, didn't eat this, just thought it was funny!
This restaurant in particular was AMAZING! It was in Nikko, just by the TOBU train station, Komekichi Kozushi
- The kindness of people - Just like Mt. Fuji, which is said to be quite shy (meaning it is not always visible and sometimes covered by clouds), the people are generally genuinely kind. Even though say it is expected to give your seat to an elderly person, they will not only thank you profusely, but also you will have to go through about 5 minutes of "you take the seat," "no, you take the seat", and on and on... Actually, this could be quite funny sometimes as it really is a 5 min ordeal. It happened a couple of times when we were looking at a map and someone random came up and just asked if we needed help and really wanted to help, despite limited English. So nice and never expecting anything in return. Even one time I went to an onsen (Japanese hot bath) and it was in a small town and was waiting for the bus to take me to the main town and I knew when I would get back, not only had a short transition time until getting picked up, but there everything would be closed to. So I went inside a restaurant, they didn't speak any English but we managed to communicate I was hungry and was asking for food, so he led me upstairs and put together a little veggie bowl for me. When I stood up to leave and was reaching in my wallet to pay him, he almost fell backwards in angst of "NO WAY" I was shocked! And then I did a "NO WAY, PLEASE let me give you something" (this is all non-verbal communication because they didn't speak English) and we went back and forth but I realized that he honestly would be extremely insulted if I did give him money and he was really just so so so kind to feed me that little bit. It was soo sooo sooo sweet!
- The banter - If you need to get a waiter or attendant's attention, you kind of blindly shout out "saam eh say," not to a particular person (on purpose) and then depending on the restaurant, but sometimes all of the staff will answer the abrupt "Hi" (Japenese style). Pretty much acknowledging that it is known that you have a need. It technically translates as "pardon me" or "excuse me," but it seems to be used a lot. "Aregato" = thank you (forgive the awful spell-how-it-sounds) and then "gon-siy mas" is used very much.... Those were the most common words I heard, with "konichiwa" as hello! Then of course there is the head bowing, another sign of respect and acknowledgement. For example, in the speed trains, when the train attendant walks through, he always bows when he enters the cart, which is just too nice!
- The food - Gasp! This should be #1. How has this come so late in this blog? Awesome, amazing, fresh, delicious, wonderful.... Well, glad I am not a foodie because that's pretty much all the adjectives I can come up with. The fish is so fresh and just sooo.... Light and soft. I of course had sushi and sashimi, then soba and udon noodles, ramen noodles, tempura (which I normally don't like or prefer fried things, it's somehow healthily fried? Hehe). And some local yummy tofu specialties and other things like this Japanese pancake - yummy! And these doughy ball things that were just yummy.
Yummy Japenese pancake, especially known in Osaka
Sushi conveyor belt! You just grab a plate and then you pay on how many empty plates you have (we had a lot! Haha)
Soba noodles! I learned that they are wheat (gluten) free! I don't know how I didn't know that!
A breakfast we had (Japanese portion, ha ha)
Typical sushi/sashimi plate
Eel! Had it in Hiroshima, It is a specialty there... delish!
Ahh... not trip to Japan without green tea ice cream!
Ramen noodles! I know it looks kinda gross here, but it wasn't mixed around. It is again well known in Kyoto
AMAZING dinner in Hokane, we had to "grill" the steak ourselves on a mini individual grill (mine made it and I survived to tell the story!)
Tempura! I normally don't like fried foods, but here ... I know it sounds funny, but I think they healthily fry foods? I do think they use different oils, it definitely doesn't taste or looks greasy and is quite yummy! We had this for our farewell dinner in Tokyo
Ryan, Mavie, James and I enjoying FRESH FRESH FRESH fish at the fish market, Tsukiji Market in Tokyo
Still don't know what these ball things are called, I just called them 'doughy balls," because that's what they are! Kinda tasted like nothing, although claimed to have bean paste flavors. I like that texture so it was good to me!
Above and below: Soooo glad I finished off my Japan trip with probably the best meal EVER! It was at this small family owned restaurant in Nikko, just by the TOGU rail station, called Komekichi Kozushi. The thing below is actually tofu, but super particularly made (the owner showed us the video), all those layers are individually made and then rolled together. Don't even know how to describe it except for delicious!
- Using two hands - this is something I heard about from my Emirates crew patients because they have special training for Japan flights, and one thing is to check the ticket with two hands and/or always take with two hands. It's one of those cultural things that you respect and again, quite polite to do it that way.
- Sake! I'm not a big drinker by any means, but somehow fell for dry sake. Such a smooth taste and goes down super easy. Strong, but not too strong. Delish!
Often they put the sake in these little square thingies and they purposely overfill it so it drips into the box and then you pour it back into the sake cup.
Me and super guide Yoko, she was soo happy to have sake!
Ahh... but of course, kit kat flavored sake! Yes, it's true! They do love their kit kats... and sake! Why not combine the two!?
- Queing or standing in line - Finally! No barging! Except for a bit in Tokyo, everyone at the bus or train waits for everyone's get off, and then enter... After standing in an organized line. Dubai tries to so this with floor paintings of "enter" and "exit," but it never works as people are so pushy and you're life would end as you know it if you don't push and shove your way on that train (joking). Alas, it is much more dignified and respectable to... Just wait your turn! Simple as that! And everyone follows it, young and old!
- The trains - Again, how have I waited so long to mention it? Not only is talking on cell phones not allowed or heavily disapproved of, it is waaaay too clean and modern and just, comfy! We took everything from the local trains to the famous "bullet" trains. They DO go super fast and almost so fast that I remember once we literally just sat down, I chatted for a few minutes with someone and then next thing I know they were like "we're here!" And here I had a book I wanted to read, lol.
No joke, fast as the speed of lightening! The super expresses were literally like "whooooosh!" as it passed you. Everything about it is awesome, quiet, FAST, clean, has wifi, plenty of space, they allow eating. The best part is when the train attendant passes through the cart and they always bow when they exit and enter the cart, so nice!
The buses and trains were just awesome. Besides clean and nice and fairly everyone respectful entering and exit, it was oddly quiet. When I asked about it, Alena said that they actually don't allow talking on your mobile! Of course you technically can, but it is considered rude to have a conversation in public in this close space (where everyone can here you). And unlike S. Korea where I felt pretty much everyone was on their phones... like everyone, here it seemed (personal observation) that a quarter were and the rest were just doozing or sitting.
Relaxed on comfy train!
- The nature - I know I mentioned appreciation for nature, but the nature there is beautiful. I think a lot of people think of big and bustling Tokyo, but Japan is breathtakingly beautiful and although saw .2 of it, the small mountain villages are so cute, the air is so fresh everywhere, and the northern bit is more gorgeous. I am glad I saw a bit in Nikko, but would love to explore more north to the mountains and go skiing! I think Dubai has tarnished me of some things because breathing fresh air and seeing natural things is just so spectacular to me, so precious. Alena and my group must have thought I was crazy because every 5 minutes (exaggerating), I would take a deep breath and exclaim, "woooowww... the air is sooo fresh!" And then stopped at almost any flower bed to admire the flowers and even touch them to make sure they were real (they were, lol). Very humbling. And I think I felt the best when I did that little Nikko hiking, meaning truly relaxed and rejuvenated, which makes me more certain to plan a mini getaway to escape in nature!). Most of the pics are at Nikko:
Hmm... I'm sure other things will come to me later, but that's all I can think of now. BUT, no worries, Japan Express B is up and coming and will defo have more pics and details! Stay tuned....
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