Tuesday, July 21, 2015

Land of the Morning Calm - South Korea

I am doing something quite different in that I am actually writing this as I am still in the country and not after the fact, as I usually do. This is for a couple of reasons, one is that I am giving myself a "rest" day as the next 2 weeks will have radio silence and doing camping and trekking in Mongolia so just want to enjoy the comforts of life (haha). Also Jeju, the small island off the coast of S. Korea is quite small and thanks to the awesome tourist guiding of my friends, have seen quite a lot! The second is I am a bit nervous about my new grad school endeavor and know I will be full on when I get back with that and things can are quite time consuming! At least my memories are fresh!

My trip to S. Korea entailed a full day and a couple of mini half days in Seoul and 5 nights, 4 days in Jeju. When I first was thinking about coming here, I contacted my University friend that lives and teaches in Jeju and when asked what I wanted to see and do, my reply was nature and activity. So hence the Seoul part came less and less and the Jeju part came more and more. Mind you, as this was initially a "transit" point to my journey to Mongolia, it has become quite a trip!! 

Soo.. It may be no surprise that I've traveled a bit, but it may be a surprise that Seoul is officially in my top top fave capital cities! Even boarding the plane in Dubai and they were calling the sections, everyone actually stood in line and waited their turns, so polite and orderly. Then when I got to Seoul and had to navigate a bit where left luggage was (wasn't going to carry around my chunky backpack around) and find the right bus to get to my airbnb place, it was almost too easy and efficient. And timely! Okayyy... Beginner city luck? Was I just getting lucky with all this? Oh no! I really think I haven't been to a city (and no, haven't been to japan) that is so clean, orderly, efficient, and EASY!!! Everything is labeled, in English and Korean, and really, even for the directionally challenged as myself can navigate quite simply. Love it! Even met this other world traveller who said she was ranking Seoul as one of her fave capital cities. And again, I just can't get over how polite and.... More polite the people are!!! Just soo kind and honest, and polite! Really lovely people. Maybe I've been in a certain culture for too long where one might say the people may be a bit pushy and not as respectful that I was so taken by this, but it is just great! I hopped on the train, and this, okay, maybe a typical scene in many places, but was funny to me:


Here they are soooo soooo into their phones, it is crazy! You can really hear a pin drop, either people sleeping or on their phones. It is also the most equipt place EVER for wi-fi. In the trains, bus stops, most every restaurant and endless cafés, is not just wifi, but also chargers! As Samsung as come from here, most everyone has a Samsung and so many places have chargers that you can charge your phone while having a drink or meal. It is incredibly safe here, so yes, you can leave your phone at one end of the restaurant and be at the other end and not worry about someone stealing it. So awesome! This was all blowing me away. Dubai is safe and all, but had an even more safe feel. Maybe it's because the people are just so kind, gentle, honest, a bit reserved and conservative and also a wee bit shy. Very sweet. 

My first night n Gangnam (hehe, had to stay here!) was lost as I went the wrong way my lovely airbnb host told me (oops!) so after all the travels just called it an early night to be all set and ready to go for my 1-full day of pow-wow sightseeing, which it was! 

Started at Gyeongbhokgung Palace, or the "Palace greatly blessed by heaven." It is considered the main palace of the Joseon dynasty, but sadly was destroyed during the Japanese invasion and then was left empty for 270 years and in the meantime, the Changdeokgang Palace was used as a main palace (which I went to later). It was reconstructed in 1867 and most of the main structures like the main gate and king and queen's quarters. Beautiful palace and besides catching an English tour, got to catch the changing of the guards, which was quite a highlight!
















The other palace was about a 20 min walk, and somehow came across an advert for Portuguese egg tarts, which I know isn't exactly South Korean, but had a flashback to my Macau trip where they are quite popular and also to my Portuguese trip last year. So had to stop there and have one. Okay, fine, two! :-) Super delicious!



The Changdeokgang Palace, although seen as the secondary palace, in my eyes, was much more beautiful. It was constructed in 1405, the 5th year of the 3rd King Taejong's reign. It was said to give balance to city as the Gyeongbokgung Palace was the palace of the west and the Changdeokgung Palace to the east. As mentioned, all of the palaces were destroyed by fire by the Japanese invasion of 1592. However, it was restored in 1610 and served as the Main palace until Gyeongbokgung was restored. It is most well known for being built in harmony and also the unique architecture because it used some structures from the other palace and also has a more massive landscape, including the "Secret Garden," this massive garden that was called "secret" because only those who got permission from the King were able to enter. It is quite meditative and beautiful greenery considering is is practically in the middle of the city. Funny enough I caught the English tours on both of these by pure coincidence. Also, and this is one of the reasons I love traveling, met a travel BFF on the tour! She was a go-getter and right away told me to get the tickets to the Secret Garden as they have a limited capacity. She was also winding down her trip to S. Korea and was full on info. Anyhoo, here are some pics from the Palace and the Garden:









Sandra (Canadian, but works for MTV London!), my new BFF, went to Dongdaemun market (she needed to shop for VERY particular clothes for the DMZ tour (darn it! Wish I planned ahead and included this. It is tour that gives a unique look into the South and North Korea situation and goes fairly near the border of N. Korea! Next time), then Insa-dong (Artisan quarter), and finally the Hongdae (party district) area. We were pro's with the metro and as it so easy to get around by metro hopped around quite easily. Even in the metro we came across these super cute local school girls in traditional outfits! Love it!


Here are some rando pics from our evening/night:

                    Of course!! 

Yes, that is an onion and cheddar cheese macaroon. Ha!

                 Octopus kebabs!

    Chicago represent!! Lots of matching couple jerseys. I guess a Korean thing? 

             Hongdae party district 

           Kimbap - Korean style sushi! 
                       Delicious! 

Also, as both of us hadn't had Korean BBQ yet (you need 2 people) and I had my very unhealthy (yet delicious) Portuguese egg tart for lunch, we were excited to have it! It was quite a feast, that and rice wine. Yum! 


As had just a morning left and hadn't even explored Gangdam AT ALL, my dear airbnb host, super sweet girl, said it was walking distance to go to one of the largest (largest) temples in Seoul, the Bonguensa Temple. So off I went for the 15ish min walk and to be a bit honest was thinking, "eh, another Temple." But alas, was surprised how it wasn't just another temple, it is hard to describe, but it had a very different feel to it. I walked around and I don't know if this is typical for a Friday, but there were many ribbons and prayer lamps and there was a service (is that what it is called?). I just sat to observe and literally just sitting there and listening to the Korean chanting or humming was quite magical and spiritual and I do have to say I had a little spiritual moment that overtook me. One of those things you can't really describe, but the feeling was quite powerful. I slowly walked around and absorbed the atmosphere and then made my walk back to the apartment and off I went to Jeju. 







So as I am still in S. Korea and everything is still somewhat fresh, I still have to say I REALLY enjoyed Seoul! I guess Seoul gets a bad reputation for being "soul-less" Seoul, because people say people follow the rules a bit too much, they are a bit too reserved, it is a bit too clean and efficient, people are just robots working working working and everyone has their noses in their phones and not open or interactive. Everyone has their own thoughts and opinions and even after hearing all that, I still am firm in believing that it is a beautiful harmonious culture and to me the people are so super sweet, kind, and polite. Not the kind and polite to get something in return, they are genuinely kind and polite. And so well-mannered! 

I leave Seoul saying goodbye to "soul-full" Seoul!!! 

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